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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.